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30psi of Boost?

8pack-2

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Anyone actually seen/hit near 30psi in the gauges in the HO? I’m still under 1k miles and with WOT on the highway I only ever really see 12ish, but am usually more concerned about not crashing into somebody when this thing is under WOT, so maybe I’ve missed it.


Wondering if there is some sort of graduated limits by mileage on max boost/torque/hp beyond 500 miles. HP always seems short of 500… I’ve seen torque hit 520, but HP usually around 400 at shift points.
 
I have personally seen 28.
How long did it take for that to spool up? Like a couple seconds of WOT or WOT running through a couple gears(like a hard launch)?

I’m just curious if I’ve got some sort of tuning issue going on. I’d think the boost would come on a little faster than what I’m seeing, but I’ve not really done a hard launch, mostly WOT from near highway speeds for a couple seconds. I’m probably babying it too much.
 
How long did it take for that to spool up? Like a couple seconds of WOT or WOT running through a couple gears(like a hard launch)?

I’m just curious if I’ve got some sort of tuning issue going on. I’d think the boost would come on a little faster than what I’m seeing, but I’ve not really done a hard launch, mostly WOT from near highway speeds for a couple seconds. I’m probably babying it too much.
You should not be driving your car that hard if under 1500 miles....(personal opinion) shoot i dont think you should recline the thing ever but you do you
 
You should not be driving your car that hard if under 1500 miles....(personal opinion) shoot i dont think you should recline the thing ever but you do you
I’m just doing what the manual says. Brief throttle acceleration in higher gear. Not doing WOT in low gears. I suppose brief throttle acceleration is open to interpretation as is most things.

The RHO (ram high output) community, those have been out longer, is saying to do stuff like WOT onto the high way ramp in low miles to seal stuff in the engine or something 🤷

Manual only says below for Chargers with hurricane engines:

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS


A long break-in period is not required for the engine and


drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.


Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km).


After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or


55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.


While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the


limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-


in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be


detrimental and should be avoided.


The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory


is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil


changes should be consistent with anticipated climate


conditions under which vehicle operations will occur.


For the recommended viscosity and quality grades
 
You should not be driving your car that hard if under 1500 miles....(personal opinion) shoot i dont think you should recline the thing ever but you do you
One you get to1000 miles does not make much difference. I've always broke in new cars hard and fast and no issues. Later RJD
 
One you get to1000 miles does not make much difference. I've always broke in new cars hard and fast and no issues. Later RJD
That's you bro seems like you go through cars on the regular i dont have that ability so I won't redline the thing.
 
That's you bro seems like you go through cars on the regular i dont have that ability so I won't redline the thing.
I can’t imagine never letting the automatic transmission shift at/near redline while owning/driving a performance vehicle like a scat pack.

They’re kind of made just for that purpose. I could be misunderstanding what you’re saying, though. The automatic on these ‘26s short shifts often from my experience, anyways, I don’t think you can really take it close to redline without being in manual. Now my SRT 392s would totally go redline in sport/track mode in automatic. These new hurricanes seem to be programmed to bail out when the torque gets too big, I think the transmission is undersized with really only about 20ftlb of buffer on this engine.
 
That's you bro seems like you go through cars on the regular i dont have that ability so I won't redline the thing.
Who goes through cars. Ha still have my 2016 Scat Pack and my 2017 vette and don't baby them. 63 409 not even a 100 miles on it red lined it all night long first night. Best car I ever had no issues with trans or engine. Later RJD
 
Who goes through cars. Ha still have my 2016 Scat Pack and my 2017 vette and don't baby them. 63 409 not even a 100 miles on it red lined it all night long first night. Best car I ever had no issues with trans or engine. Later RJD
Yet....is the key word....also lucky....luck does run out though....but good on you...
 
My boost gauge is not in PSI - it reads in inHg. I don't know if it's possible to change the units?
0 is centered on these gauges. When it’s to the left and the engine is under vacuum (little to no boost) it’d be in inches of mercury. When you hit the throttle for a bit it will head to the right and it should switch to psi for the boost.

I think they did this for nostalgic purposes to match old analog boost gauges.
 
Are we'all talking about the same thing?

29.92 inches of mercury (inHg) is equivalent to approximately 14.695 psi.

 
Are we'all talking about the same thing?

29.92 inches of mercury (inHg) is equivalent to approximately 14.695 psi.

When the boost is negative and to the left of center… the engine is in vacuum the gauge shows inHg… when the car is accelerating /revved the gauge moves to the right and when it passes the center it switches to PSI.

Pay attention to the gauge in the IC next time you’re driving. The measurements in inHg are negative pressure, yes you could technically convert them to PSI, but it’s all negative pressure when the gauge is left of center. The car does not sit in boost at idle, it’s in vacuum.
 
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