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What's with all these "CHECK ENGINE" lights?!

NewYorker7

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What's with all these check engine lights on these brand-new Sixpacks I keep reading about? Do the dealerships/mechanics actually find an issue that needs to be repaired, or is this just a bug?
 
I recently went through the same thing, the PCM de-energizing, I took it in and they flashed it. Fixed the check engine light issue but lost Drag and Track modes. Very upsetting.
 
What's with all these check engine lights on these brand-new Sixpacks I keep reading about? Do the dealerships/mechanics actually find an issue that needs to be repaired, or is this just a bug?
Link? I only read about occasional issues.
 
I recently went through the same thing, the PCM de-energizing, I took it in and they flashed it. Fixed the check engine light issue but lost Drag and Track modes. Very upsetting.
In the same situation , But Dodge may have a class action on their hands , The official site clearly states it has Drag mode
 

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In the same situation , But Dodge may have a class action on their hands , The official site clearly states it has Drag mode
It does now. When it first was posted it did not. It wasn't until it hit lots and people got them they put that on there. I also have heard you can get them back by getting another update. /shrug
 
I recently went through the same thing, the PCM de-energizing, I took it in and they flashed it. Fixed the check engine light issue but lost Drag and Track modes. Very upsetting.
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Yenori
Dodge Cares
 
Sounds like someone is trying to spam this forum thinking they are talking about the Daytonas .
 
If any of that is true,
1 - That sensor (on basically all new cars, any make) and its programming behind it, could explain a lot of these issues.
2 - If #1 IS true, then it is horrible in my opinion, since they have been testing this platform for 2 years now.
FWIW, on the Daytonas, I have never heard of, or seen, anyone reporting the 12v system is lower than 13.8 volts while the car is "on". This is before and after failures of the cars, with and without dead 12v batteries. My 12v battery died once overnight about 16 hours after being driven. It was 5v when I measured it after failing to start (turn on). After "jump starting" the car, it immediately went well over 14v. Then I had a shifter failure which needed replaced (and towed). Nobody knows if the shifter failure caused the 12v to drain, or it was a result of the car flaking out coming back "online".
 
If any of that is true,
1 - That sensor (on basically all new cars, any make) and its programming behind it, could explain a lot of these issues.
2 - If #1 IS true, then it is horrible in my opinion, since they have been testing this platform for 2 years now.
FWIW, on the Daytonas, I have never heard of, or seen, anyone reporting the 12v system is lower than 13.8 volts while the car is "on". This is before and after failures of the cars, with and without dead 12v batteries. My 12v battery died once overnight about 16 hours after being driven. It was 5v when I measured it after failing to start (turn on). After "jump starting" the car, it immediately went well over 14v. Then I had a shifter failure which needed replaced (and towed). Nobody knows if the shifter failure caused the 12v to drain, or it was a result of the car flaking out coming back "online".

.....
 
Last edited:
This went south fast.................
 
Pictures, and details, of each occurrence. Where, when, what car, what options. Otherwise, nobody knows anything to learn or help with.
 
If any of that is true,
1 - That sensor (on basically all new cars, any make) and its programming behind it, could explain a lot of these issues.
2 - If #1 IS true, then it is horrible in my opinion, since they have been testing this platform for 2 years now.
FWIW, on the Daytonas, I have never heard of, or seen, anyone reporting the 12v system is lower than 13.8 volts while the car is "on". This is before and after failures of the cars, with and without dead 12v batteries. My 12v battery died once overnight about 16 hours after being driven. It was 5v when I measured it after failing to start (turn on). After "jump starting" the car, it immediately went well over 14v. Then I had a shifter failure which needed replaced (and towed). Nobody knows if the shifter failure caused the 12v to drain, or it was a result of the car flaking out coming back "online".
It probably didn't even need the new shifter. We had a CEL light for a completely different reason(voltage problem)and they tried to reflash it then said i needed a new shifter. After the got the latest update from dodge shifter worked as it should but lost drag and track modes.
 
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