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VADER58

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Beginning yesterday my car would not start on the first attempt. It took three or four tries. It would turn over and the brake pedal would pulse but no start. Eventually, it would fire up. I have an appointment tomorrow morning at the dealer. Has anyone experienced this yet?
 
No, haven't seen this issue pop up. Wonder if its your crankshaft sensor.
 
That sucks… I sincerely wish you the best of luck with the dealership service department…. “Could not reproduce” after having it for 3 days would not surprise me. Then it happens the day after you get it back. They just don’t put the work in because they’re not incentivized to even though the answer is probably very clearly in the logs…

Anyways, I really do hope they figure this one out for you.
 
Unknown, remote start seems to work every time. It feels like it might be software related.
If I had to guess it’s the second battery, everything starts on one and moves over to the other on ignition from my understanding… so the brake by wire required to start it may not be getting enough juice and would explain the pulsing… these don’t have hydraulic brakes, it’s electric/over wire from the pedal.

At least that explain the discrepancy between starting it behind the wheel bonking out and remote start working flawlessly.


All the proximity sensors and bull 💩 in these, I’d recommend triple locking it from the remote always to avoid drain on the second battery… I don’t think this system is immune to the drain seen in the RAM trucks with the two battery tech. I’ve always triple locked mine in anticipation of the second battery issues and how close in proximity my key sits inside the house to the car in the garage.
 
I had my brake pedal act funny briefly BEFORE starting the car, like it had too much pressure. I pumped it a bit and everything went back to normal and started fine. Only happened once so far.

The only thing I can think of to check would be that the hood is securely latched. The car does not like to start or run if the hood is open, and will kill the engine if it detects that it's open.

Unknown, remote start seems to work every time. It feels like it might be software related.
This makes me suspect it may be a faulty sensor in the brake pedal? Pushing the brake is the only difference I can think of between remote starts and regular starts.
 
If I had to guess it’s the second battery, everything starts on one and moves over to the other on ignition from my understanding… so the brake by wire required to start it may not be getting enough juice and would explain the pulsing… these don’t have hydraulic brakes, it’s electric/over wire from the pedal.

At least that explain the discrepancy between starting it behind the wheel bonking out and remote start working flawlessly.


All the proximity sensors and bull 💩 in these, I’d recommend triple locking it from the remote always to avoid drain on the second battery… I don’t think this system is immune to the drain seen in the RAM trucks with the two battery tech. I’ve always triple locked mine in anticipation of the second battery issues and how close in proximity my key sits inside the house to the car in the garage.
Battery was also in my mind. I'm waiting with the car so hopefully they'll get to me quickly.
 
Beginning yesterday my car would not start on the first attempt. It took three or four tries. It would turn over and the brake pedal would pulse but no start. Eventually, it would fire up. I have an appointment tomorrow morning at the dealer. Has anyone experienced this yet?
No issues here Later RJD
 
Possibly unrelated but, right before this started I enabled WiFi at my house for the car to connect to and update UConnect, etc. Again, not saying that was the cause just trying to think of anything that might have changed...
 
If I had to guess it’s the second battery, everything starts on one and moves over to the other on ignition from my understanding… so the brake by wire required to start it may not be getting enough juice and would explain the pulsing… these don’t have hydraulic brakes, it’s electric/over wire from the pedal.

At least that explain the discrepancy between starting it behind the wheel bonking out and remote start working flawlessly.


All the proximity sensors and bull 💩 in these, I’d recommend triple locking it from the remote always to avoid drain on the second battery… I don’t think this system is immune to the drain seen in the RAM trucks with the two battery tech. I’ve always triple locked mine in anticipation of the second battery issues and how close in proximity my key sits inside the house to the car in the garage.
Triple lock? You mean literally press the remote lock button 3 times?
 
Triple lock? You mean literally press the remote lock button 3 times?
Yep, it disables the security motion sensor inside the car too, that’s why triple because I suspect that’s a drain too and unnecessary in my garage. I double lock when parking and the key will be far away.
 
Yep, it disables the security motion sensor inside the car too, that’s why triple because I suspect that’s a drain too and unnecessary in my garage. I double lock when parking and the key will be far away.
Sorry but what's the difference between single lock and double? I see the manual describes the triple lock disabling intrusion detection but don't see mention of double lock.
 
Sorry but what's the difference between single lock and double? I see the manual describes the triple lock disabling intrusion detection but don't see mention of double lock.
I only just learned about the triple lock, but I assume single and double are the same as any other car: One lock locks the doors, a second lock will sound the horn and enable the security system.
My understanding is the third lock will reduce the security system a bit and disable motion sensing elements but I assume it keeps the car alarm active in the event of someone tampering with the doors and windows.

Anybody feel free to correct me if I'm off.
 
I have used the fob to lock doors and the horn will sound on a single push to lock. This is set up in settings. Later RJD
 
If I had to guess it’s the second battery, everything starts on one and moves over to the other on ignition from my understanding… so the brake by wire required to start it may not be getting enough juice and would explain the pulsing… these don’t have hydraulic brakes, it’s electric/over wire from the pedal.

At least that explain the discrepancy between starting it behind the wheel bonking out and remote start working flawlessly.


All the proximity sensors and bull 💩 in these, I’d recommend triple locking it from the remote always to avoid drain on the second battery… I don’t think this system is immune to the drain seen in the RAM trucks with the two battery tech. I’ve always triple locked mine in anticipation of the second battery issues and how close in proximity my key sits inside the house to the car in the garage.

Funny thing is this same exact issue happened in my Jeep and it was exactly that, damn aux battery lmao. Good luck OP, keep us updated on what it is.
 
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