DIY Oil Change

[Big Smoov17 17]

Sounds simple and no need to reply “I take mine to dealer” because some of us prefer to make sure we put in quality oil/filters on our schedule.
There are some nuances if you’ve done your own on other cars and even previous gen.
First, the access is much farther back with a little door (no need to remove the whole covers). The door is hinged and took a little finagling to get out- probably the longest part since wasn’t forcing it.
Drain is straight down- no surprise missing the pan! The filter is horizontal and a little tighter than previous gen to get off. I did not swap filter since only 500 miles and the factory uses a gorilla to put these on. I have always used K&N filters with a 1” nut on bottom, which makes removal super easy. Limited space here, so plan accordingly- see photos.
Of note is plenty of sparkly stuff and some sizable pieces on oil from break in- see photos. Also definitely dark- so I would NOT run this to 10k or anything. I plan to do again at about 3k miles with filter. This drain is going to Blackstone along with subsequent for analysis and proof for warranty that I did timely changes
Motor Oil Geek and others recommend multiple changes in first 10k miles. I used 5W-20 Restore & Protect and plan to continue with that.
I’ll post the analysis when I get it back.


Also- there is an oil level reset procedure, but given a little time and oil temp on flat ground, it resets automatically. Initially when I restarted the engine a “Max Oil Level Exceeded”’message came up, but that went away in about a minute and it is setting at just touching MAX with 7 qts in leaving old filter. I guessed the filter probably had 1/2 qt and fill capacity is 7.5 qts- so next time with filter change, I’ll just put 7 again and see where it sets. Factory fill on mine and others seems to be about 3/4 to max.
Hope this helps others!

 

[VADER68 32]

Good info. Thanks for sharing. I’ve been considering doing my own on this car. Do you have a set of ramps you could recommend that’ll fit without hitting the lower lip?

 

[Big Smoov17 17]

Good info. Thanks for sharing. I’ve been considering doing my own on this car. Do you have a set of ramps you could recommend that’ll fit without hitting the lower lip?

The ones I’ve been using for many years are 36” long and provide 6.5” lift- they left about 1/2” clearance going up which work fine. Longer ramps with lower angle would be better. I’ve always wanted some Race Ramps or other that would give me more like 8”+ under but never could see spending the $300 or double for those. I believe mine are Rhino Ramps (heavy polymer) and were like $70 back 20 yrs ago

 

[baabootoo91 77]

So, you are not using 0W-40?

 

[Chevyguy8]

So, you are not using 0W-40?

Hopefully he has an R/T
I had read somewhere that the oil level reset requires an interval of drainage before refilling. I’ll try to find it, there’s no crush washer or one use drain plug it seems

 

[Big Smoov17 17]

So, you are not using 0W-40?

RT- so sticking with 20w for now- I’d prefer at least to go to 5w-30. Did that on my magnums with 5.7 after I swapped cams and dumped MDS. I know the HO is 40w— might even go there, just getting through first 10k on specified oil before making a decision. I did go 5w instead of 0 because here is WA state I don’t see Midwest winters

 

[Big Smoov17 17]

Hopefully he has an R/T
I had read somewhere that the oil level reset requires an interval of drainage before refilling. I’ll try to find it, there’s no crush washer or one use drain plug it seems

Oil Level Display - How To Refresh

The oil level is automatically monitored when the vehicle is parked on a level surface, the oil is warm and the engine has been off approximatly four minutes. To refresh the oil level display (after a quart of the correct oil has been added), follow this process:

● Run the engine until the oil temperature is above 180°F (82°C).

● Park the vehicle on relatively level ground.

● Turn the engine off and cycle the Start button to the ON/RUN position. Wait four minutes with the engine off, and the button in the ON/RUN position.

● Start the engine and the new oil level will be available in the Vehicle Info menu (accessible via the navigation buttons on the steering wheel).

 

[daperry38 39]

RT- so sticking with 20w for now- I’d prefer at least to go to 5w-30. Did that on my magnums with 5.7 after I swapped cams and dumped MDS. I know the HO is 40w— might even go there, just getting through first 10k on specified oil before making a decision. I did go 5w instead of 0 because here is WA state I don’t see Midwest winters

I would recommend sticking to the recommended synthetic 0-40W. This is not your old block that powered the Hemi engines. Higher engine temps, higher RPMs and boost with the twin turbos, and smaller oil distribution passages with the inline six setup. Heaver weight oil or friction reducing additives could clog the engine arteries and give it a heart aTTACH.

 

[daperry38 39]

I would recommend sticking to the recommended synthetic 0-40W. This is not your old block that powered the Hemi engines. Higher engine temps, higher RPMs and boost with the twin turbos, and smaller oil distribution passages with the inline six setup. Heaver weight oil or friction reducing additives could clog the engine arteries and give it a heart aTTACH.

Fat figured the response but essentially, you are playing with fire if you think you know more than the design engineers with this motor when it comes to oil viscosity.

 

[takoeninger6pk33 1]

Fat figured the response but essentially, you are playing with fire if you think you know more than the design engineers with this motor when it comes to oil viscosity.

Thanks for posting this, very helpful.

 

[Big Smoov17 17]

Fat figured the response but essentially, you are playing with fire if you think you know more than the design engineers with this motor when it comes to oil viscosity.

The HO is speced for 0-40 and the SO for 0-20. Most manufacturers spec 20W for less friction/more mpg. Attached is the Stellantis diagram of parts shared and unique with the engine block the most obvious shared component. HO has forged crank, rods and pistons but the SO has a higher compression ratio (9.5 vs 10.4). So 40w shouldn’t actually matter in the RT version if the engineers call for it in the Scat - probably for its bigger turbos and presumed more performance use. This isn’t like a 5.7 vs 6.1 or 6.4 that had oil spec differences when the concern then was thicker oil on the MDS lifter operation (even the 6.4 with MDS was spec 0w-40)

 

[vrax49 27]

Did my own not too long ago, it was a slow drain after the initial push of oil down. The factory filter was pretty solid on it so definitely needed to use my filter removal tool. Overall simple process for anyone that enjoys doing their own changes. I would stick to 0-40 (HO version) as well, especially in colder climates. Good info dump OP.

 

[aceinspp93 124]

I would stick with what ever the engine calls for. Your messing with your warranty by not using the recommended oil. Later RJD

 

[RevEngineer93 124]

I changed mine a few weeks ago at 2300 miles. Have 5900mi on it now. Used Mobil 1 0W-20 and a Mobil 1 filter, M1 212A. This filter is listed for trucks but fits just fine. I have the Rhino Ramps and there is plenty of clearance uNader the car. Like somebody mentioned in a previous post, the access panel was a little farther back underneath the car than I expected. I didn’t get a good look at the oil to see any particles or chunks.